Naples wraps around a wide bay with Vesuvius on the far shore, the busiest, loudest and most itself of Italy's big cities.
Its centre is a UNESCO grid laid out by the Greeks, with Roman streets underneath and baroque churches, washing lines and Maradona murals on top. Pompeii, Herculaneum, Capri and the Amalfi Coast are all a train or a ferry away.
It's chaotic, generous and theatrical, a city that is lived in rather than shown, with a football club it treats as a religion.
Eat pizza where it was invented, a sfogliatella still warm from the oven, and a paper cone of fried seafood from a street window.
Round trip from Prague, any dates in November 2026.

The two Roman towns Vesuvius buried in 79 AD. Pompeii is a whole city of streets, villas, frescoes and bakeries; Herculaneum, smaller and closer, lay under deeper ash and kept its upper floors and even carbonised wooden beams.

The limestone island at the mouth of the bay: the Faraglioni rocks, the Blue Grotto, the piazzetta of Capri town and a chairlift from Anacapri to the top of Monte Solaro.

The volcano that buried Pompeii, quiet since 1944 but still watched round the clock. From the car park a short, steep path climbs to the rim of the crater, with the whole bay of Naples below.

The volcanic island of the bay and Italy's spa island: thermal gardens with pools of different temperatures, hot springs running into the sea, and the Castello Aragonese on its own rock.
, longer by summer 
Positano, Amalfi and Ravello stacked on cliffs above the sea along one of the world's most famous coastal roads, a UNESCO site. Lemon terraces, small pebble beaches and the Path of the Gods high above the water.
Backstreets, coastline and lunch
Etruscan hills, Baroque cities and volcanic islands, with the cooking changing every fifty kilometres and nobody rushing any of it.
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