While the crowds rush to the sea, Croatia's capital keeps to itself — a handsome Austro-Hungarian city of ochre façades, leafy parks and a red-roofed medieval Upper Town that climbs above the modern centre.
Life here moves to the rhythm of the café: the Saturday-morning špica, when half the city dresses up to see and be seen over a slow coffee, is a ritual in its own right. Markets like Dolac spill over with produce, the streets hide oddball gems such as the Museum of Broken Relationships, and come December the squares become one of Europe's best-loved Christmas markets.
Zagrebčani are dry-humoured, unhurried and quietly proud of a city most visitors skip.
Eat cheesy štrukli and turkey with mlinci, browse the market stalls, and round off the evening with a glass of local rakija.
Round trip from Prague, any dates in October 2026.