Skopje is unlike anywhere else — over a single decade the government filled its centre with hundreds of statues, fountains and neoclassical facades in a surreal makeover known as 'Skopje 2014', so that a giant Alexander the Great now rears over a city that is half theme-park, half Balkan capital.
Cross the Ottoman stone bridge and the kitsch falls away into the Old Bazaar, one of the largest in Europe, where mosques, hammams and cevapi grills crowd the lanes. Around it stand the bold concrete landmarks raised after the 1963 earthquake, when the city was rebuilt as a showcase of brutalist architecture.
Macedonians are warm, unhurried and disarmingly direct, proud of a city the rest of Europe barely notices.
Eat tavce gravce and grilled meats, drink strong Turkish coffee or a glass of rakija, and watch the evening korzo fill the squares.
Round trip from Prague, any dates in October 2026.