Krakow came through the war almost untouched, and it carries its medieval old town with the quiet confidence of a city that was spared.
The vast Main Square fills with pigeons, a trumpet call cut off mid-note from St Mary's tower, and the smell of obwarzanek pretzels drifting from every cart. Up on Wawel hill a castle and cathedral guard the bones of kings, while the Tatra mountains wait barely two hours south.
This was a royal capital long before Warsaw, and the students pouring out of the ancient university keep it loud past midnight.
Duck into a milk-bar for pierogi, then find a vaulted cellar under the square and let the old brick do the talking.
Round trip from Prague, any dates in October 2026.